May 1st

I left Pamplona early this morning for the hike to Puente La Reina (Queen’s Bridge). A long uphill climb to a wind farm followed by a steep, gravelly descent.

I left a few things from my pack behind in Pamplona—anything I was not sure I was going to need. In general, you just need the clothes you’re wearing and the clothes you will wear tomorrow.

Every ounce counts. I took a pound or so out of my pack, and really felt the difference. Also ditched my color-coded packing cubes. My clothes fit in the pack much better if they can find the little nooks and crannies.

I have spoken to several other peregrinos who have also left things behind. No matter how much research and preparation you do, you learn a lot once you start your Camino. I don’t like being wasteful, but I had to tell myself, you’re not going to make it if you don’t get rid of this stuff.

The goal of today’s climb was Alto del Perdón, the mount of forgiveness.

Alto del Perdón is home to a wind farm. Windmills in both directions as far as you can see.

A fellow hiker offered to take a photo of me at the iconic sculpture there (you’ll know it if you’ve seen the movie, “The Way,” with Martin Sheen).

The sculpture depicts a life-sized line of pilgrims making their way along the Camino. On closer inspection, the pilgrims progress through time, from the Middle Ages through modern times.

The woman who took my photo insisted that it was tradition for me to stand in the space before the last pligrim and pretend that I was hiking with them. I complied.

The descent was difficult–perhaps the most difficult descent of the Camino. Steep, with loose rocks and plenty of places to trip.

The Queen’s Bridge dates back to the 12th century, and spans the river Arga. It’s a magnificent structure with six large arches across a broad stretch of the river, built to facilitate the safe passage of medieval pilgrims.

The city was under protection of the Knights Templar, but they did not have a fortress here.

I’ll be getting a early start tomorrow for Estella, as it is starting to get hot. My Brierly guidebook says 3 steep climbs to 3 hilltop villages followed by a gentle slope down.

At the Alto del Perdón

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