The climb to O Cebreiro is considered the second most challenging on the Camino Francés.

The first 20 km from Villafranca are mostly flat, with a few rolling hills. It the last 10 km is a step ascent into Galicia along a rocky path.

Makes for a long day.

The terrain has changed considerably over the past two days. Rather than large, flat fields, this region has an increasingly diverse topology and is very green, with numerous villages dotting the valleys and ridges.

One of the guidebooks calls O Cebreiro a “hobbit town,” and the description is pretty apt. The few buildings here have a charming, improvised feel. Many have been converted to souvenir shops to accommodate the peregrino trade.

Who buys souvenirs with one, two, or three more weeks of hiking ahead of them? Someone who sends their luggage ahead every day, that’s who.

There are virtually no beds here, so everyone books in a nearby village. My hostal was supposed to be 2 km away, bit it turned out to be 5. A bit too much after a 30 km day, so I shared a cab to the place where I’d made my booking.

The woman who checked me in arranged for a taxi to pick me up in the morning. There is a wonderful efficiency in how the environment has adapted to the needs of peregrinos. I remember thinking the same thing about Peru when Victoria and I visited Machu Picchu a few years ago.

To make sure I have time for a bite to eat before my taxi arrives, I’ll set my alarm for the morning, although the church bells generally start ringing at 6. I’m going to miss the church bells when I get home.

It is a rule in the albergues, and common practice among pilgrims, to respect a 10 PM lights out. Peregrinos get up early. But, again thanks to Franco, it doesn’t get dark here until around 10:30. I can’t say with any confidence that I’ve seen “night” in all this time in Spain.