May 11th

I had an extra day in Burgos, so hiked up the hill to visit the ruins of the castle. Originally a Roman fortress, it had served several purposes in the intervening centuries. There was a beautiful lookout spot over the old city.

I found a museum in the Iglesia de San Esteban and went in for a look.

When I got back to my hotel, I saw that the door to the church of St. Nicolas was finally open. It is a small Romanesque church near the cathedral.

There were two hand-printed forms on the bulletin board inside the door. I recognized them as a “posting of the banns” from my time in Spain 30 years ago. When a couple intends to marry, their names are posted publicly for a period of time so that anyone who might object can do so.

Maybe this is done in Catholic communities everywhere, but I have only seen it in Spain.

I took the Renfe train across the Meseta from Burgos to León to save a few days. The Meseta is considered the least interesting—and easiest—part of the Camino, and a 90 minute train ride will save me 6 days.

When I leave León, I will have 13 more stages to hike. So I am almost at the halfway point.

The train was comfortable and efficient. There was someone sitting in my seat, but he moved as I mulled around checking my ticket and the seat numbers.

At the end of the ride, I realized that I was sitting in the wrong car!

I made it to my hotel in León on the Plaza Mayor. The taxi driver gave me some tips about what to go see tomorrow.

View of the old city of Burgos from the castle.

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